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Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Communion Banner

Inspiration photo


      I was asked by a client to make a First Communion banner for her son.  She said she had no talent at all regarding sewing or crafting and didn't want to mess it up.  She sent me this photo for inspiration. The size was to be 10" x 15".

Color chart for chalice w/ grapes design


     I searched through my designs but nothing fit so I went to Embroidery Library to find a design.  I found a wonderful chalice with grapes in three sizes.  I bought all three sizes not knowing which would work best.

Templates


      I then printed out the templates for the designs and started auditioning them with the name and date.

Option 1


     I laid out my rulers on my cutting mat to simulate the design area size.  I wanted to make the blue one inch smaller than the background of white to have a border of the white.  The largest one was okay but seemed to overwhelm the wording.

Option 2


     The smallest one looked lost while the middle one seemed just right.  Kind of like Goldilocks :-)

Option 3


     Once I had determined which size I was going to use I then recorded where the center lines were on the piece.  I then transferred these marks to the blue felt which I cut one inch larger than I needed to allow for any possible shrinkage with the stitching.

Markings on felt


     With the placement lines all done I hooped sticky paper and then used the marks to align my fabric in the hoop.  It was done in two hoopings.  The chalice was stitched using my 5" x 7" hoop and the name and date were done using the 7" x 11" hoop.

Beginning stitching the chalice design


     The design used several colors to get the shading on the grapes and chalice.

Stitching complete


     After the stitching was complete I carefully tore any the sticky stabilizer and pressed from the wrong side.  I then used my wavy rotary cutter to trim it to size keeping the design centered.

Finished banner
 

     Then using Rowley's fringe adhesive I applied the blue felt to the background white felt that I had sewn a rod pocket in at the top.  This also served to cover up the stitches from the back.  Now mom and son just have to add the dowel rod and ribbon.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

After School Classes February 2014

Nonie and her skirt


     The kids have been working hard in class.  We have missed some days due to extreme cold temps but otherwise the snow hasn't been much of a problem, except for trying to keep a clean walkway for the students.

Christine and her peasant blouse


     On Mondays Ellen and Cara are working on projects from commercial patterns.  Ellen is making a dress that has a knit bodice and the jersey fabric she has been working with has been a challenge.  She as the top part almost done and then it will be time to cut out the skirt pieces and start putting those together.  Cara is making a tote bag.  She has the pieces all cut and all the interfacings applied.  The pattern called for two different interfacings, one fusible and one sew-in so she has gotten to work with different ones.  Certainly a learning experience for her.

Lindsey and her denim skirt


    On Tuesdays Kate is working on a pair of lightweight denim shorts.  I thought yesterday she would get the elastic done but she spent a little too much time chatting.  Nonie finished her back slit skirt from a soft corduroy. She cut out a square neck blouse yesterday from a black and white chevron print.   Christine finished her peasant blouse last week but was sick this week so her new project will have to wait for next week.  Greta is almost done with her Simplicity blouse.  Just needs a few finishing details and then she will go onto her next project.

Nick and his sweatshirt
   

     On Wednesdays Lindsey finished her back slit skirt and has started on a peasant nightgown from a cute heart print fabric.  Natalie is working on her nightshirt while Julia has been using the serger to make a pair of knit ribbed drop waist pants.  Nick finished his sweatshirt and is working on a quilt that he started at a class at a local quilt store.

Aviva and her pants


On Thursdays Najiyah is almost done with her plaid pants while Bella is working on a round neck blouse.  Aviva finished her flannel pajama pants.  I heard from her mom that she hardly takes them off while at home.  So happy to hear they enjoy wearing what they made.  Maddie finished her penguin pajama pants and said she couldn't wait to get home and put them on.

Maddie and her pants

Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Altering a Skirt Waistband

Bias tape on inside back waistband




     A client brought me a skirt last week that was just a bit big for her.  She bought it on sale but it didn't come in her size so she bought one size larger.  She was concerned that it wasn't fitting her right, it looked too long.  The problem was that the waist was 2 1/2 inches too big and when I snugged up the waist it suddenly looked so much better.

   
Can't even see the stitches on the outside!


     The problem was though that with all the seams and topstitching it was nearly impossible to slim down the skirt and waistband.  I decided instead to place elastic in the back waistband to cinch it in.  With the very narrow waistband though I couldn't just open it up and feed through some elastic.

Elastic added to bias tape banding



     I applied a bias tape using a denim colored thread and then used that casing to insert some narrow elastic.  Though it looks a bit 'bunchy' here when it is worn it it fairly smooth looking.  The client was delighted with her now fitting skirt.



Right side go the back of the skirt with the new elastic.

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

Pillowcase Tutorial


Completed Back to School Pillowcase


     Now that my grandson is a year old I have decided to make him pillowcases for every holiday.  I have several sets for myself and they are so fun to do.  Here is my method.

     You will need three coordinating fabrics.  The main body is cut 17" by the WOM (width of material), the band is cut 10 by the WOM and the accent strip is cut 2" by the WOM.  Fold the accent strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press.

     If you want to do embroidery on the band, place it in the upper left hand section of the band with the top facing the cut edge.  Place the accent strip on top of the band with the raw edges even at the top.



Accent strip pinned to band


Detail of accent strip and band


     Pin in place,  Then lay the main body fabric on top again with raw edges even at the top.  Pin in place.  now roll the main body fabric into a tube.

Main body fabric on top of accent strip and band


Main body fabric rolled up




     Bring the bottom edge of the band up and over the rolled fabric, aligning raw edges and ends.  Pin in place.  I also used some Wonder Clips for this step as you now have five layers of fabric.


Band fabric pulled up over rolled fabric


Ready for the first stitching


     Once you have everything pinned securely take it to your sewing machine.  Sew the raw edges together with a 1/2" SA (seam allowance).

1/2 inch seam allowance


     After sewing the seam, press the stitches.


Pressing the stitches flat


     Now comes what I call the magic part.  Reach in and grab the main body fabric and slowly pull it out through the side.  Once you have all the fabric pulled out it is time to press again.


Startin the pull through process

Halfway done


     With the wrong side of the pillowcase facing up, carefully press the seam towards the band fabric.



Pressing from the back

     

     After pressing from the back, flip the pillowcase over and now press from the front.  The accent strip will face towards the body of the pillow and the seam allowances will be facing towards the band.  As you press the seam you my now also press the bottom to get a nice crisp hem.


Ready to press from the front


Pressing front, including the hem


     After pressing the pillowcase, fold in half approximately bringing the long end of the body fabric to the hem.  The sides are probably not even at this time because not all fabrics are the same width.  Trim both sides even, cutting off the selvedge edges.


Trimming sides
Trimming sides


     Open up the pillowcase and place wrong sides together matching the accent strip and hem.  Pin the two sides with the raw edges.

Wrong sides together

Matching hesa and accent strip



     Take to the sewing machine and sew with 1/4" SA.  Trim corners and press stitches flat.

Sewing 1/4 inch seam allowance

clipping corners



Pressing stitches flat

     To get nice flat seams for the next step I place the pillowcase over my presser/clapper and press the seams open.

Pressing seams open


     Turn the pillowcase inside out and press the seams flat, making sure that the seam is at the edge.

Pressing edge


     Stitch this seam with a 3/8" SA.  Again press the stitches after sewing and then turn right side out.  Use a point turner to help help crisp corners.

Sewing 3/8 inch seam allowance

Point turner


     Press one final time and you now have a pillowcase with no raw edges anywhere.

Embroidery detail

Valentine pillowcase